Article: How much do you know about the coffee you drink every day? How delicious coffee will change the future

Share

毎日飲むコーヒーのこと、どれだけ知っていますか？　おいしいコーヒーが未来にもたらす変化とは

Aug 31, 2024product story

How much do you know about the coffee you drink every day? How delicious coffee will change the future

Text: Yuki Yoshida

"I think there are people who spend more than 500 yen a day on coffee. That comes to nearly 200,000 yen a year. If you're going to spend that much money, wouldn't it be better to be more interested in coffee?" says Norihiko Nishimura, president of TERRA COFFEE ROASTERS (Harmony Co., Ltd./TCR), a specialty coffee shop.

And like this.

"If you go to a restaurant, they might say, 'This is a caprese salad made with tomatoes from XX,' 'The main course is made with meat from XX, and the sauce is made in XX style,' 'For dessert, we have ice cream made with raw milk from XX farm,' and 'Finally, we have coffee after the meal.' The moment they move on to coffee after the meal, their tone drops dramatically."

...That's true. It made me realize how casually I usually view coffee.

We interviewed CEO Nishimura on the occasion of the release of the collaborative coffee between RETO and TCR. As we talked about his passion for coffee and his journey so far, we arrived at the topic of the future of coffee.

My encounter with coffee was triggered by sports

TERRA COFFEE ROASTERS opened in October 2021. Based in Osaka, it is now a popular coffee shop with clients and fans all over the country.

── You were originally in a different industry, so what led you to enter the coffee industry?

In 2011, I moved from Osaka to Tokyo to start working for an office supplies manufacturer. When I had some free time, I wandered into a road bike specialty store and saw a lot of cool bikes lined up. Since I had been watching the Tour de France for a while, I bought one on the spot and started riding my bike.

I was able to travel farther and farther, and I was riding 300 to 400 km a week. When I went far away by bicycle, what did I want? It was good coffee and bread. Soon I started going on cafe rides, and went to various places around the country to drink coffee.

Many people who play sports are coffee lovers. As I interacted with cyclists, I had more opportunities to try coffee. Then, I gradually began to think, "Coffee doesn't taste like anything else." From there, I gradually became a coffee enthusiast. After looking at social media and industry magazines, I started sourcing coffee from overseas.

I started buying my own raw beans and a roasting machine like the ones used by professionals. I started working with wholesalers on a personal basis. I couldn't drink it all by myself, so I started giving the beans to coffee drinkers. Then they would ask me, "What kind of coffee is this?" or, "Oh, you don't know this brand?"

He started his own business after realizing the need to raise coffee literacy in Japan.

── Was it a small sense of discomfort that led you to start a business? Tell us about the events that led to you opening TERRA COFFEE ROASTERS.

Before long, I started watching barista competitions overseas. I would think, "I want this dripper," or "I want to try using this grinder." When I went to a trading company and asked, "Do they sell them?", they would say, "What's that?" It made me realize once again how little coffee literacy there is in Japan.

Coffee is the most consumed beverage in the world. Japan's consumption is fourth in the world. Despite the amount of coffee consumed in this island nation, when I opened the lid, I found that most of the coffee I was drinking was roasted in unknown dates, originated in unclear countries, and produced by unknown producers. This made me think, "We need to improve coffee literacy in Japan."

In the end, no one knows. Even in restaurants that are particular about their ingredients, when you ask, "Where is this coffee from?" they'll say, "It's from XX," and name a major company. This is the same as saying, "This is coffee from TCR (CEO Nishimura's company)." They'll be like, "No, I don't know" (laughs). So, even the chefs don't know, and no one knows where to order coffee.

── I see. So you started your own business?

While working as a salaryman, I continued researching coffee and realized it was an incredible blue ocean. However, when I told people around me that I wanted to open my own coffee shop, they all opposed the idea, asking, "Can you make a living?"

Now, about three years after going independent, I distribute nearly two tons of coffee per month, which was within my expectations.

── What do you mean?

Even now, I drink coffee from all over the country, but everyone knows about TERRA COFFEE ROASTERS, and that's because we're spreading our coffee around the country with such force.

To give you an idea of how much 2 tons is, a popular coffee shop produces about 100 kg per month. A famous specialty coffee shop that has been around for 10 or 15 years produces about 1 ton per month. Our current production is 2 years and 8 months old, at 2 tons per month.

── Amazing...

This is within my expectations. I can imagine what it will be like in six months, a year, and beyond. I'm spot on when it comes to coffee. That's how confident I am in my understanding of the current state of coffee.

"Do you cook high-quality meat until it's charred?" Why we insist on shallow frying

The "TERRA" in TERRA COFFEE ROASTERS is derived from the Latin word "terra," which means terroir in French. This word refers to the growing environment of the ingredients.

── TERRA COFFEE ROASTERS is committed to making "non-bitter coffee," but what does that mean specifically?

I want you to think about this in terms of food. When it comes to yakiniku and yakitori, do you grill them to the max? Do you use high-quality meat and grill it until it's burnt?

It's the same thing. Coffee is originally a red fruit, and it is said to have ten times more aroma than wine.

Just like meat and vegetables, the longer you cook them, the more the moisture and flavor inside them evaporates. This causes carbonization. When carbonization occurs, bitterness appears. The bitterness in coffee is the result of carbonization. At my directly managed coffee shop, we never use dark roasts. We stick to light roasts.

However, I understand the desire to drink bitter coffee in the morning, so although we don't offer it at our own stores, we do offer dark roast coffee for wholesale.

Our dark roasting is based on the theory behind light roasting. It's dark roasting, but by preheating the roast, we're able to retain moisture properly. This requires a lot of theory.

── Is it like low-temperature cooking?

Yes. We have a light roasting method, which is why we can produce dark roasts. We have thoroughly developed this method and are now selling it wholesale.

── I see. I'm impressed that your corporate website not only introduces the regional characteristics and flavors of the green beans, but also the economy and politics. Why go to such lengths?

It's important to clearly state the producer's background, that is, "In which country, at what altitude, this species is grown in this way. This is the kind of coffee it is." If you drink it after being told, "This is what it tastes like," it tastes much better. It's the same as asking, "Why do chefs give explanations?" There is a big difference between drinking it after listening to an explanation and not.

Coffee x Sports "TCR.CLUB" Initiative

── You are working on an initiative that combines coffee and sports. What exactly are those activities?

I'm still exploring what TCR.CLUB is all about, but I want to create a place where people who enjoy sports, like running and road biking, can gather. I first discovered coffee through sports, so I want to give back to that community.

In terms of my past activities, I have exhibited at several sporting events. I feel that there is a strong relationship between sports and caffeine. Before the race, long lines form.

In 2023, we have invited the Trail Runners Cup to Minoh, Osaka. To be honest, I would like to have TCR.CLUB members run in such a competition and snatch victory. They would say, "Why? Isn't it caffeine after all?"

The ideal situation for TCR.CLUB is for it to spread without any order. It all started with the connection we had through coffee. In the future, I hope to create a system that connects wholesalers and members.

"For me, spreading the word about specialty coffee is a social activity."

── What made you decide to collaborate with RETO?

From my perspective, I was grateful for this offer. I believe that ultimately, the mission of humanity is social action. When RETO approached me, I felt there was something in common. I had the same thoughts, so I thought, "Let's do this." By connecting in some way, we might be able to cooperate in some way, and broadly speaking, I think that is part of social action.

When I first connected with Takagi-san (Reto's business manager) online, we were distributing food and snacks to those affected by the Noto earthquake in Wajima City, Ishikawa Prefecture. Connecting with him at that time made me realize a lot of things.

RETO's activities are necessary for improving health, and if you're going to drive on your days off, you should drive together. I also thought that it could play a role in reducing CO2 emissions for the sake of the global environment.

── President Nishimura, you are involved in a wide variety of businesses and activities... who are you?

I am a coffee bean wholesaler. I could also be called a social activist. Last year and the year before, I was the president of the Osaka area (Hokusetsu Mirai Lions Club) of the Lions Club, the world's largest volunteer organization.

People probably ask me, "Who are you?" (laughs). To me, spreading the word about specialty coffee is also a form of social activity. Coffee is facing the "2050 problem" (*).

*The 2050 coffee problem: The impact of climate change caused by global warming will significantly reduce the amount of land suitable for coffee cultivation. Not only will the growing environment deteriorate, but rust, a major enemy of coffee trees, will become more likely to become serious, significantly impacting coffee plantations. There are concerns about a decline in coffee production, coffee plantations going out of business or withdrawing from the industry, and poverty among coffee producers. If things continue as they are, it will become impossible to drink delicious coffee, and it will become difficult to enjoy coffee on a daily basis as we do now.

Specialty coffee may disappear in the future. Who will stop the trend? It's our generation. We have to be the game changers. We have to deal with climate change, too, and we can't tolerate unfair trade with ignorant farmers.

The reality is that many farms are disappearing or going bankrupt. Here, I, at TERRA COFFEE ROASTERS, can put a stop to this by working hard. By increasing our current production from 2 tons to 5 tons, then 10 tons, and so on, we can give more back to the farm owners. This will help the farms survive. This is a social activity.

── TCR's mission and vision are also very sustainable. What is the reason that you are able to work so hard for society? There are an increasing number of companies and people who claim to be sustainable, but you are doing something essential. Please tell us about the process and thinking that led you to this point.

Because life is too short. To create proof that you have lived. Life ends in the blink of an eye. That's why you should give 101% effort. I believe that when you put in 101% effort, it will leave a lasting mark.

I want collaborative coffee to be easy to drink.

── Please tell us about this collaboration coffee.

Collaboration Coffee is a great choice for those who want a quick and delicious cup of coffee. This time, we have chosen two contrasting types.

The first one is coffee from Kenya. Coffee from the African continent has a complex flavor. Africa is the birthplace of coffee, and there are areas in some countries where coffee grows naturally. The soil environment is excellent. The altitude also contributes to a high sugar content. I think you can really taste the fruitiness of specialty coffee.

The second is "Brazil." Brazil has recently seen a significant improvement in its quality. Its altitude is not that high, and it is characterized by its robust flavor.

The two varieties we have chosen this time are a way to express the overwhelming difference in the taste of specialty coffee.

-- Both of them make you want to drink them. Is there any particular reason why they're shaped like tea bags?

We are very particular about our coffee. We use the "immersion method," which involves continuously immersing the coffee. The coffee reacts with the soft water and releases its components. Normal drip coffee is the "permeation method," where hot water is poured from above. The hot water only passes through for a moment, so depending on the brewing method, the flavor components may not be fully released. Rather than half-heartedly dripping, it is better to use the immersion method, as the coffee will taste better.

(Afterword)

Everyone has their own reasons for being drawn to coffee. From the calming effect on the mind to the soothing aroma, coffee brings many joys. Many people have a daily morning coffee routine. For those of you who do this, I would like to ask you a question, with a sense of self-reflection.

How much do you know about the coffee you drink every day?

Drinking delicious, authentic coffee while thinking about terroir. This action not only increases your own happiness. It also connects you to many different people, including those who grow coffee in places far from Japan. It may be an exaggeration to say that it will change the future, but it has the potential to do so. This was an opportunity to think about such things.

Thank you to Mr. Nishimura, CEO of TERRA COFFEE ROASTERS!